How to Grow Microgreens Indoors

Growing microgreens indoors is one of the quickest ways to produce fresh edible greens at home. You don’t need a backyard, a greenhouse, or even much gardening experience. A shallow tray, a growing medium, seeds, water, and a bright window or grow light are enough to get started.

Many popular microgreens are ready to harvest in roughly one to two weeks, although slower-growing varieties such as basil and cilantro take longer. Because they’re harvested while still young, you can fit an entire crop onto a windowsill, kitchen shelf, or small indoor growing rack.

Radish microgreens add a peppery bite to sandwiches. Pea shoots are crisp and sweet. Sunflower greens are substantial and nutty, while broccoli, kale, arugula, mustard, and cabbage offer their own distinctive flavors.

The process is simple, but a few details make an enormous difference. Too much water can encourage mold and weak growth. Too little light produces pale, stretched seedlings. Seeds need to be planted densely—but not so densely that air cannot circulate.

Here’s how to grow healthy microgreens indoors from seed to harvest.

🌱 What Are Microgreens?

Microgreens are young edible seedlings harvested after germination but before the plants mature.

They are generally harvested once the seed leaves, called cotyledons, have expanded and sometimes after the first true leaves begin appearing.

That makes microgreens different from mature salad greens. You’re not waiting for a radish to form a root or a broccoli plant to produce a head. You’re harvesting the tender young stems and leaves while the plant is still very small.

Microgreens are also different from sprouts.

Sprouts are usually germinated without soil and eaten very young, often including the seed and root.

Microgreens are normally grown in a soil-like medium, mat, or hydroponic system and harvested by cutting the stems above the growing surface.

That distinction is especially important when it comes to growing methods and food safety.

🥬 What Are the Best Microgreens for Beginners?

Some varieties are considerably easier and faster than others.

For your first tray, radish or broccoli are excellent choices. Both germinate quickly, grow vigorously, and are usually ready to harvest in about 8 to 12 days under good conditions.

Other beginner-friendly choices include kale, cabbage, arugula, mustard, and mesclun-style greens.

Peas and sunflowers are also popular but involve an extra step because the larger seeds benefit from soaking before planting.

Basil and cilantro are delicious as microgreens but require more patience. Utah State University Extension estimates basil at about 12 to 16 days and cilantro around 21 to 28 days under its tested growing conditions.

Starting with a fast crop makes it much easier to learn how moisture, light, and seed density affect your results.

🌶️ What Do Different Microgreens Taste Like?

One of the most enjoyable parts of growing microgreens is discovering how much flavor can fit into such tiny plants.

Radish has a crisp, spicy flavor reminiscent of mature radishes.

Arugula is peppery and distinctive.

Broccoli is relatively mild.

Kale has a mild brassica flavor.

Mustard can be noticeably spicy.

Pea shoots are sweet, fresh, and unmistakably pea-like.

Sunflower microgreens are thicker and have a pleasantly nutty flavor.

Basil delivers the familiar aromatic flavor of mature basil in a much smaller package.

Cilantro provides fresh cilantro flavor and makes an excellent finishing green for tacos, soups, grain bowls, and other dishes.

Growing several varieties separately lets you learn which flavors you actually enjoy before experimenting with mixes.

⚠️ Not Every Vegetable Should Be Grown as a Microgreen

Do not assume that every edible vegetable produces edible microgreens.

Plants in the nightshade family, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes, should not be grown and eaten as microgreens. Their seedlings contain alkaloids and are not considered suitable for this purpose.

Penn State Extension specifically advises against using tomato, pepper, eggplant, and potato seedlings as microgreens.

Avoid unidentified wild seeds as well. Seedlings can be difficult to identify accurately, and some plants contain compounds that make them unsafe to eat.

For the simplest and safest approach, buy seed specifically sold for growing edible microgreens.

🌻 Can You Use Regular Garden Seeds?

Technically, some ordinary vegetable seeds are the same species used for microgreens, but seed intended for microgreen production is the better choice.

Microgreen seeds are commonly sold in larger quantities because you plant far more densely than you would in a vegetable garden.

More importantly, you don’t want seed that has been chemically treated for conventional planting.

Look for untreated seed from a reputable supplier and make sure the variety is appropriate for consumption at the seedling stage.

Because microgreens are food, seed quality matters.

🪴 What Do You Need to Grow Microgreens Indoors?

You don’t need an elaborate hydroponic setup.

A simple beginner system requires a shallow growing tray with drainage holes, a second solid tray to catch drainage or allow bottom watering, a clean seed-starting medium, untreated microgreen seed, clean water, and adequate light.

A small grow light is useful but not absolutely necessary if you have an exceptionally bright window.

Scissors or a clean sharp knife make harvesting easier.

A kitchen scale becomes helpful if you begin growing repeatedly because different varieties require different seeding densities, but beginners can follow the recommendations supplied by the seed company.

♻️ Can You Reuse Takeout Containers?

Yes, certain food containers can make perfectly workable microgreen trays.

Choose shallow containers that are sturdy enough to hold damp growing medium.

Create drainage holes in the growing container and place it inside or above a second container without holes.

Wash the containers thoroughly before use.

Reusable microgreen trays eventually become more convenient if you grow continuously, but you don’t need to buy specialized equipment before discovering whether you enjoy the hobby.

A cleaned produce container or shallow takeout tray can produce a perfectly good first crop.

📏 How Deep Should a Microgreen Tray Be?

Microgreens don’t need deep pots because they’re harvested long before developing mature root systems.

A growing medium depth of roughly 1 to 2 inches is sufficient for many varieties.

Illinois Extension recommends a shallow container with drainage and describes about 2 inches of growing medium as a practical setup.

Deep flowerpots aren’t harmful by themselves, but they waste growing medium and make harvesting less convenient.

Shallow trays also fit more easily beneath grow lights and on shelves.

🌱 What Growing Medium Should You Use?

A clean, lightweight seed-starting mix is one of the easiest choices for beginners.

Other systems use coconut coir or commercially produced grow mats.

Avoid digging ordinary soil out of your backyard and bringing it into the kitchen. Garden soil is much heavier than seed-starting medium, drains differently in containers, and may introduce weed seeds, insects, or pathogens.

The ideal medium should retain enough moisture for germination while still allowing oxygen around the roots.

It should feel damp rather than muddy.

Utah State University gives a useful description for properly moistened coconut coir: it should feel similar to a wrung-out sponge.

That’s a good moisture target for most microgreen media as well.

💦 Should You Pre-Moisten the Growing Medium?

Yes.

Moistening the medium before you sow makes it easier to create evenly damp conditions without washing tiny seeds into piles afterward.

Place the growing medium in the tray, add water gradually, and mix until moisture is distributed throughout.

If you squeeze a handful, it should feel moist but shouldn’t pour water.

Level the surface gently without packing it into a hard slab.

Roots need moisture and air.

🌻 Which Microgreen Seeds Need Soaking?

Small seeds such as broccoli, kale, radish, arugula, and mustard generally do not require presoaking.

Larger seeds may benefit from it.

Utah State University’s microgreen guidance, for example, recommends approximately six hours of soaking for peas and 12 hours for sunflower seeds before planting.

Penn State also describes soaking peas and sunflowers before sowing.

Follow the directions provided for your particular seed rather than soaking everything automatically.

Long soaking can create its own problems, especially if seeds remain submerged far beyond what is necessary.

🌱 How to Grow Microgreens Indoors Step by Step

Once you’ve gathered your supplies, the process is straightforward:

Clean your equipment. Begin with clean trays, hands, work surfaces, and tools.
Prepare the medium. Add approximately 1 to 2 inches of moist seed-starting mix, coconut coir, or another suitable microgreen medium to a shallow tray with drainage.
Prepare the seeds. Presoak varieties such as peas or sunflowers when recommended. Small seeds usually go directly onto the tray.
Sow densely and evenly. Microgreens grow much closer together than mature vegetables, but try to avoid seeds sitting several layers deep on top of one another.
Press the seeds gently into the medium. Good contact between seed and growing medium encourages consistent germination.
Cover as appropriate. Many microgreens germinate well when covered for the first few days. Another tray placed on top can retain darkness and humidity. Larger seeds such as peas and sunflowers are sometimes germinated beneath a light weight to maintain good contact with the medium.
Check moisture daily. Keep the medium damp without saturating it.
Uncover after germination. Once seedlings have emerged and begun lifting upward, remove the cover and give them plenty of light.
Water carefully as they grow. Bottom watering is particularly useful because it keeps leaves drier and avoids knocking seedlings over.
Harvest when the crop reaches the appropriate stage. Cut the stems just above the growing medium with clean scissors or a sharp knife.

The exact number of days varies by species, temperature, light, seed quality, and growing conditions.

🌑 Why Are Microgreens Covered During Germination?

Seeds don’t immediately need strong light.

During the early germination period, a cover helps retain moisture and creates the darker environment commonly used for many microgreen crops.

You’ll sometimes hear this described as the blackout period.

The exact duration varies considerably.

Fast-growing radish may need only a short covered period, while basil takes considerably longer to germinate.

Peas and sunflower are often germinated under another tray with a small amount of weight on top. This keeps the seeds pressed firmly against the growing medium and can also help seedlings shed their seed hulls.

Once the shoots are established, remove the cover.

At that point, light becomes essential.

💡 How Much Light Do Microgreens Need?

Microgreens need strong light after germination if you want compact, sturdy, richly colored growth.

A bright window can work, especially if it receives plenty of direct natural light.

But indoor window light is often weaker than it appears to human eyes.

If seedlings become long, thin, pale, or dramatically lean toward the window, they probably need more light.

A basic grow light makes indoor production much more consistent, particularly during winter.

Position and operating time depend on the type and intensity of the fixture. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations rather than assuming every light should hang at the same height.

Utah State University’s controlled growing recommendations use an 18-hour light and 6-hour dark cycle, demonstrating that microgreens can tolerate a long artificial-light period. Home growers don’t necessarily need to replicate those exact conditions to produce a successful tray.

☀️ Can You Grow Microgreens on a Windowsill?

Yes, particularly when the window receives strong sunlight.

A bright south-facing window generally provides more light than a north-facing one in the Northern Hemisphere.

Rotate the tray periodically if seedlings lean strongly in one direction.

Windows can also become surprisingly cold at night or hot in direct afternoon sun, so pay attention to temperature.

If repeated crops become tall and floppy, adding a grow light may improve results more than experimenting with fertilizer.

🌡️ What Temperature Is Best?

Normal indoor temperatures work well for many common microgreens.

Different crops have somewhat different preferences, but you don’t need to turn your kitchen into a greenhouse.

Consistent moderate warmth encourages germination.

Extremely cool rooms slow growth, while excessive heat combined with saturated media and poor airflow can contribute to problems.

If you’re comfortable in the room, many common microgreens probably will be too.

For growers who want precise production conditions, Utah State University’s controlled recommendations use approximately 74°F during germination, 72°F during the light period, and 68°F during darkness.

For a household tray, that level of temperature control usually isn’t necessary.

💧 How Should You Water Microgreens?

Water is one of the most important parts of successful microgreen growing—and one of the easiest to overdo.

During germination, misting or gentle watering helps prevent seeds from being displaced.

Once roots are established, bottom watering is often preferable.

Place water in the solid tray underneath the growing tray and allow the growing medium to absorb it through the drainage holes.

After it has absorbed enough moisture, don’t leave the tray permanently standing in deep water.

The goal is an evenly moist root zone, not a swamp.

Keeping water off the foliage as much as practical can also reduce prolonged surface moisture.

🚿 How Often Should You Water?

There isn’t a reliable universal schedule.

A sunny tray may need water more frequently than one grown under cooler artificial lighting.

Pea shoots use more water as they become larger.

Different growing media hold different amounts of moisture.

Instead of watering automatically every morning and evening, check the medium.

If it is still comfortably damp, additional water may not be necessary.

If the surface and root zone are drying, water.

Learning what a properly moist tray feels like is much more useful than memorizing a schedule.

🍄 Is the White Fuzz Mold or Roots?

One of the most common microgreen panics happens when growers notice fine white hairs surrounding the roots.

Often, those hairs are root hairs, not mold.

Root hairs typically form evenly around emerging roots and can seem to disappear when misted.

Mold tends to spread more irregularly across seed hulls, growing medium, and plant material rather than appearing only along the roots.

If you’re uncertain, also consider the smell and overall condition of the tray.

Healthy microgreens should smell fresh and earthy.

A musty, sour, or rotten odor is a warning sign.

🍄 How to Prevent Mold

Mold problems usually improve when you focus on growing conditions rather than trying to spray the tray with homemade treatments.

Start with clean trays and clean growing medium.

Avoid oversaturating the tray.

Don’t sow seeds so densely that air cannot move through the emerging crop.

Remove the germination cover once the seedlings are ready for light.

Provide reasonable airflow around the trays.

And discard crops that become heavily moldy rather than trying to rescue greens you intend to eat raw.

Starting over is inexpensive and safer.

🌬️ Do Microgreens Need a Fan?

A fan isn’t mandatory for one small tray in a well-ventilated home.

However, gentle air circulation can be helpful in a larger indoor setup where several dense trays create a humid microclimate.

If you use a fan, you don’t need to blast seedlings continuously.

The goal is simply to prevent stagnant, excessively humid air around the foliage.

A small fan moving air around the growing area—not violently across the plants—is sufficient.

Good spacing between trays can help as well.

🌿 Do Microgreens Need Fertilizer?

Not always.

Many microgreens are harvested so young that the seed itself supplies much of the energy needed for early development.

When growing in a quality seed-starting medium or another medium containing some nutrients, additional fertilizer may be unnecessary for fast crops.

Longer-growing varieties or inert hydroponic media may benefit from carefully managed nutrients.

For a beginner growing radish or broccoli in seed-starting mix, however, don’t assume fertilizer is required.

Adding excessive nutrients can make a simple project unnecessarily complicated.

Get the water and light right first.

📏 How Dense Should You Plant Microgreens?

Microgreens are planted far more densely than ordinary vegetable seeds.

You’re creating a mat of young greens rather than giving each seed enough space to become a mature plant.

But maximum density isn’t the goal.

Seeds should generally form an even layer without being stacked deeply on top of one another.

Large pea seeds naturally require more room than tiny arugula seeds.

Commercial and extension recommendations often express seeding density by weight per tray because this is much more accurate than counting individual seeds.

Once you find a variety you enjoy, record how much seed you use for your tray size. Future crops then become much more consistent.

🌱 Why Are My Microgreens Tall and Floppy?

The most likely cause is inadequate light.

Seedlings stretch toward a weak light source in a process called etiolation.

Move them into stronger light or improve the grow-light setup.

Overcrowding can also produce weak growth, as can leaving seedlings covered for too long after germination.

Some varieties are naturally taller than others, so compare the crop with normal growth for that particular plant rather than expecting sunflower, basil, and broccoli to look identical.

💛 Why Are My Microgreens Yellow?

Seedlings often look pale or yellow immediately after being uncovered.

That’s normal.

They have been germinating without light and have not yet developed much chlorophyll.

Once exposed to adequate light, they should begin turning green or developing the characteristic color of their variety.

Persistent pale growth several days later may indicate insufficient light or another growing problem.

🌻 What About Seed Hulls Stuck to the Leaves?

Seed coats frequently remain attached to newly emerged microgreens.

Sunflowers are particularly famous for this.

Keeping larger seeds appropriately moist during germination and using the recommended weighted-cover technique can help seedlings shed their hulls.

After uncovering, many remaining hulls fall away as the leaves expand.

You can gently remove loose hulls before harvest.

Don’t aggressively pull at a hull that is still firmly attached if doing so will damage the seedling.

✂️ When Are Microgreens Ready to Harvest?

Harvest time depends on the variety.

Utah State University provides a useful range: arugula may be ready in 6 to 8 days, peas in 8 to 10 days, sunflower around 9 to 10 days, broccoli and radish approximately 8 to 12 days, basil about 12 to 16 days, and cilantro roughly 21 to 28 days under its growing system.

Those numbers are guidelines rather than deadlines.

Your home conditions may produce faster or slower growth.

Many microgreens are harvested after the cotyledons are fully open and before or around the appearance of the first true leaves.

Taste and texture matter too.

If you prefer slightly larger pea shoots, for example, you may allow them to grow longer.

✂️ How to Harvest Microgreens

Harvest with clean scissors or a sharp knife.

Hold a small section of greens gently and cut the stems above the growing medium.

Avoid scooping soil, roots, and seed debris into your harvest.

Work across the tray until you’ve collected what you need.

If possible, harvest when the plants are reasonably dry rather than immediately after drenching the foliage. Dry greens are easier to handle and store.

Inspect the crop and discard anything slimy, moldy, discolored, or unpleasant smelling.

🚿 Should You Wash Microgreens?

Treat microgreens like other fresh produce.

Wash your hands before handling them and use clean harvest tools.

Before eating, rinse the harvested greens under cool running potable water and dry them appropriately.

Don’t wash produce with soap, detergent, or household cleaners.

Because microgreens are often eaten raw, cleanliness throughout growing and harvesting is particularly important.

🧼 Food Safety Matters

Growing food on your kitchen counter doesn’t automatically make it free from microbial risk.

Seeds, water, growing media, dirty trays, hands, pets, kitchen surfaces, and other sources can introduce contamination.

Use clean equipment and potable water.

Buy seed from a reputable supplier.

Keep trays away from raw meat preparation areas, pet food, litter boxes, dirty dishes, and other possible contamination sources.

Wash hands before sowing and harvesting.

Clean reusable trays thoroughly between crops.

And never eat a tray that smells rotten or shows obvious spoilage.

🌱 Are Microgreens the Same Food-Safety Risk as Sprouts?

No, but the distinction shouldn’t be interpreted as meaning microgreens have zero risk.

Sprouts are grown in exceptionally warm, humid conditions and are commonly consumed whole, including the seed and root. FDA has documented numerous foodborne illness outbreaks involving raw sprouts, with contaminated seed frequently identified as an important source.

Microgreens are usually grown for longer, exposed to light, and harvested above the growing medium, so the production system is different.

However, they are still fresh produce and are often eaten raw.

Clean seed, water, surfaces, trays, and harvesting practices remain important.

People at increased risk of severe foodborne illness should follow advice from their healthcare provider and current public-health recommendations when deciding which raw foods to consume.

🐈 Keep Pets Away From Your Growing Trays

A sunny windowsill that looks perfect for microgreens may also look perfect to your cat.

Keep pets from walking through, sleeping beside, chewing, or drinking from microgreen trays.

Pet paws, mouths, fur, and litter can introduce contaminants to food-growing areas.

If your favorite sunny window is also your cat’s favorite observation deck, a small grow-light shelf in a pet-free area may be the better choice.

🧽 Can You Reuse Microgreen Soil?

For a small home setup, I wouldn’t make repeated reuse of the same growing medium the default recommendation.

After harvesting, the tray contains dense roots, seed hulls, and decomposing organic material.

Rather than immediately sowing another crop into the same root mat, compost the used medium if appropriate and begin the next edible crop with clean material.

Reusable trays, on the other hand, are ideal.

Wash them thoroughly between plantings.

This gives each crop a clean start while still keeping waste relatively low.

♻️ What Should You Do With the Root Mat?

After harvesting, lift the remaining root mat from the tray.

If you compost at home, untreated plant material and compatible growing media can usually join your compost system.

You can also break suitable material apart and add it to an outdoor compost pile rather than sending it to the trash.

Then clean the tray thoroughly and prepare it for the next batch.

This is one reason microgreens work so nicely as a continuous indoor gardening project: harvest one tray, clean it, and sow another.

🌱 Will Microgreens Regrow After Cutting?

Sometimes you may see a little regrowth, particularly from peas and a few other species.

But for most home microgreen crops, one strong harvest is the simplest approach.

After cutting, the remaining stems can be uneven, weakened, and crowded among old roots and decaying seed material.

Rather than waiting for an inconsistent second crop, sow another tray.

With fast varieties taking little more than a week, succession planting is usually more productive.

📅 How to Have Microgreens Available All the Time

Instead of planting five trays on the same day, stagger them.

For example, sow a small tray every few days or once a week.

By the time you’re harvesting one crop, another will already be developing.

After a few rounds, you’ll learn roughly how much your household eats and how frequently you need to plant.

This prevents the classic beginner problem of suddenly having a mountain of radish microgreens on Tuesday and absolutely none the following week.

🍽️ How to Use Microgreens

Microgreens work best when their fresh flavor and delicate texture can stand out.

Add them to sandwiches just before serving, scatter them over soups after cooking, tuck them into wraps, use them as a topping for avocado toast, mix mild varieties into salads, or finish grain bowls, tacos, eggs, pizza, and roasted vegetables with a small handful.

Spicy radish or mustard microgreens can replace some of the peppery bite you might otherwise get from mature arugula.

Pea shoots are substantial enough to become a significant part of a salad.

Basil microgreens are wonderful where you would normally use fresh basil as a garnish.

Try each variety alone before making mixes. That makes it easier to learn which ones deserve permanent space in your indoor garden.

🥗 Are Microgreens Nutritious?

Yes, but avoid the blanket claim that every microgreen contains a specific number of times more nutrients than every mature vegetable.

Nutrient concentrations differ dramatically by species, cultivar, growing conditions, harvest stage, and which nutrient is being measured.

Research has shown that microgreens can contain substantial concentrations of vitamins, minerals, carotenoids, and other plant compounds, but the exact nutritional profile varies.

The simplest way to think about them is as another way to add fresh vegetables and herbs to meals.

Their greatest practical advantages are that they’re flavorful, quick to grow, and easy to produce in very little space.

🏠 Can You Grow Microgreens Year-Round?

Yes.

That is one of their greatest strengths.

Outdoor gardening seasons may end with frost, but microgreens can continue on a shelf or windowsill throughout winter.

Artificial lighting makes production especially predictable because you’re less dependent on short winter days and cloudy weather.

Growing indoors also makes it possible for apartment dwellers and people without gardens to produce at least a small amount of their own food.

A single tray won’t replace a vegetable garden.

But watching seeds become something edible in little more than a week is remarkably satisfying.

💡 Do You Need an Expensive Microgreen Growing Kit?

No.

Kits can be convenient because everything is packaged together, but the plants don’t care whether the tray arrived in an attractive box.

A shallow container, drainage, suitable growing medium, good seed, clean water, and adequate light accomplish the same basic job.

If you discover that you love growing microgreens, then upgrading to durable matching trays, shelving, lights, and a small fan can make repeated production easier.

Start simple.

Let the plants convince you to buy more equipment rather than buying an entire indoor farm before your first radish seed germinates.

🌿 Soil vs. Hydroponic Microgreens

Microgreens can be grown in potting media, coconut coir, fiber mats, and hydroponic systems.

For beginners, seed-starting mix or coconut coir is often the easiest approach because moisture management is fairly intuitive.

Hydroponic growing can be clean and efficient but may require more attention to water and nutrient management depending on the crop and system.

Neither method automatically produces “better” microgreens.

The best method is the one you can keep clean, appropriately moist, adequately lit, and consistent.

🌱 Common Microgreen Growing Mistakes

Most unsuccessful trays can be traced to a small group of problems.

Using the wrong seeds can create safety issues, particularly if someone attempts to grow nightshade seedlings for eating.

Too much water encourages unhealthy roots and fungal problems.

Too little light produces pale, stretched plants.

Excessive seed density reduces airflow and makes the crop harder to manage.

Leaving the germination cover on too long creates tall pale seedlings after they’ve already emerged.

Dirty trays and tools increase contamination risks.

Using garden soil indoors makes moisture control more difficult.

Expecting every variety to be ready in seven days leads people to harvest naturally slower species too soon.

Fortunately, all of these problems are easy to correct on the next tray.

🌿 An Easy First Crop to Try

For your first indoor microgreen experiment, I’d choose radish.

Fill a shallow draining tray with about 1 to 2 inches of pre-moistened seed-starting mix. Spread untreated radish microgreen seed evenly over the surface, press it gently into the medium, and follow the supplier’s guidance for seed density and whether a light covering is recommended.

Keep the seeds moist and covered during the short germination period.

Once they’ve sprouted, uncover the tray and immediately give it strong light.

Water from below as needed.

Within roughly 8 to 12 days, you should have a small forest of peppery greens ready to cut.

Then try broccoli.

Then peas.

Then suddenly you’ll understand how people end up with an entire shelf devoted to tiny vegetables.

🌱 Small Garden, Fast Results

Microgreens are a great reminder that growing food doesn’t have to begin with a large backyard, raised beds, compost deliveries, or months of waiting.

A seed contains everything necessary to begin.

Give it moisture, warmth, oxygen, growing space, and then light. Within days, the first roots appear. Soon afterward, the tray turns green.

Not every crop will be perfect. One tray may be too wet. Another may stretch because the window wasn’t bright enough. You might plant sunflower seeds too densely or discover that you simply don’t like mustard microgreens.

That’s part of gardening.

The advantage here is that you can try again next week.

Once you learn the basic rhythm—sow, germinate, uncover, light, water, harvest, clean, repeat—growing microgreens indoors becomes one of the simplest ways to keep a little edible garden going throughout the year.

And there is something especially satisfying about making lunch, reaching toward a tray on the kitchen counter, and realizing that the freshest ingredient in the meal was still growing thirty seconds ago.